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Mount Shasta Glacier Travel & Ice Climbing



Day 1
We meet at the Fifth Season outdoor store in the town of Mount Shasta where we conduct a pack check and discuss gear options. We then drive about an hour and a half to the trailhead at Brewer Creek (Elev. 7,400 ft). We spend the rest of the day hiking to our base camp at the "Hotlum Hilton" (Elev. 10,200 ft), just yards from the snout of the Hotlum Glacier. The evening is spent acclimating, making prusik cords and enjoying fine camp food prepared by your guide.


Day 2
After breakfast we begin our mountaineering skills seminars with a review of ice axe and alpine ice climbing cramponing techniques, snow and ice anchoring principles and belaying techniques. The rest of the day is spent learning basic glacier roped travel and navigation techniques with a tour of the lower Hotlum Glacier.


Day 3
Today is crevasse rescue and ice climbing day. After breakfast we journey up to the middle of the Hotlum or Chicago Glaciers and find a suitable crevasse in which to cover proper crevasse rescue techniques including hauling systems, prusiking (rope ascending) techniques and one-on-one rescues. Everyone should have an opportunity to be lowered into the crevasse. We will finish up with some vertical ice climbing out of the crevasse before heading back to camp.

Day 4
Today is summit day. We awake early, 3-4 am, for our alpine start up the Hotlum Glacier route of Mt Shasta. Putting our glacier travel skills to work, we climb up the Hotlum Glacier exiting either left onto an ice gully or right onto the Hotlum/Bolum route, depending on conditions and group strength. Large crevasses, ice falls and seracs, and big time views are encountered along the way. A truly magnificent route with a spectacular summit (14,162 ft). That evening is spent resting at base camp.

Day 5
The morning is spent reviewing any skills we need to cover before breaking basecamp and descending to the trailhead. We usually arrive back in the town of Mount Shasta around 3pm.